On the island of Borneo stands a behemoth mountain – Mount Kinabalu. Its rocky sawtooth peaks reach high into the blue yonder. When you see the mountain, it appears to have sprouted straight out of the plump moisture-laden clouds surrounding its base. Mount Kinabalu’s magnificent stature amongst the surrounding horizon is inescapable. The majestic mountain summit teases and enchants the adventurous spirit of all who lay eye’s on it.
“I was enamored by the rock faces that surrounded me and the blanket of pure white clouds I was looking down on. This was the most spiritual space I’d ever been to, and I was reluctant to leave.”
– Sean Hummel (reflections from sunrise at the summit)
Getting to know Mount Kinabalu
So you want to hike to Malaysia’s Highest Point? I couldn’t encourage you more!
Here is some background info to get you more familiar.
Mount Kinabalu is located within the Malaysian territory on the island of Borneo. Kota Kinabalu is the nearest ‘big’ city and the place where any aspiring hikers fly into to begin their journey to the summit.
The mountain is part of Kinabalu National Park, and its presence is an ornamental centerpiece. The 290 square mile park is a UNESCO World Heritage site and boasts rich biodiversity of plants and animals. It is estimated there are between 5,000-6,000 vascular plant species within the park! The most famous and notable is the carnivorous pitcher plant.
Mount Kinabalu is the tallest mountain in the Crocker Range, standing at 4,095 m (13,435 ft). The summit is the highest point in Borneo and Malaysia. As far as prominence goes, Mount Kinabalu ranks 20th out of 125 mountains.
Getting to the summit is a challenging and grueling 8.5-kilometer hike. In total, the trip takes two days and one night from start to finish. All hikers are required to have a registered guide with them, be checked-in with the park, and pay the necessary park fees. Hikes can be arranged from Kota Kinabalu or directly at the park headquarters. The cost is roughly $500 (USD). It includes transportation to trailhead, lunch, and dinner on day one, accommodations for one evening, and two breakfasts on summit day.
The hike up Mount Kinabalu is a non-technical summit approach. Meaning, it does not require any special climbing gear or extensive climbing experience to reach the top. Anyone with a fit able body and strong will should be able to witness the sunrise from the top.
A Word About Altitude Sickness
For any would-be hikers out there considering Mount Kinabalu, you must understand how serious altitude sickness is and familiarize yourself with the signs of it. Although Mount Kinabalu may be an accessible mountain summit, it does not mean it is free from any danger.
The summit of Mount Kinabalu is above 4,000 m (13,120 ft). Do you know how your body reacts to that kind of elevation? Everyone’s physiology differs when it comes to altitude sickness. Some people will only moderately feel the effects at 5,000 m (16,400 ft) while others can feel miserable at 2,000 m (6,550 ft). It has nothing to do with your physical fitness; it is just how our bodies react to oxygen at high altitude (low air pressure).
If you haven’t spent the time to learn about altitude sickness, I strongly encourage you to before setting out for any mountain summit!
Have a look at this article from Harvard Medical School to learn more.
Gear for Hiking Mount Kinabalu | The Things You’ll Need
The last thing anyone wants to do is to carry more than they need up a mountain. This gear list is narrowed down to just those essential items you’ll need to set yourself up for success and provide a little bit of comfort along the hike.
When I embarked on this hike, it was not something I planned for in advance. Most of the gear that I took with me I purchased at a sporting goods store in Kota Kinabalu.
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Hiking Mount Kinabalu Essential Gear
- Water-resistant trekking pants (NOT JEANS)
- Beanie/wool hat
- Neck scarf, buff, neck gaiter or balaclava
- Gloves
- Wool socks (ideally above the ankle)
- Extra underwear and socks
- Thermal base layers (top and bottom)
- Towel
- Sunglasses
- Hiking boots (or at least a good pair of trail running shoes)
- Rain jacket
- Fleece jacket or puffy insulated jacket
- Plenty of warm layers
- Hiking day pack
- Rain cover (for backpack)
- Headlamp
- Water bottle (recommend 2x 1L bottles)
- Means to purify water (there are places to fill bottles along the trail, but the water is not treated)
- Earplugs & eye mask (for sleeping in bunkhouse)
- Camera
- Protein bars & energy foods
- Dextrose tablets (if you can’t find these honey sticks are an excellent alternative)
- Sunscreen
- Lip balm
- Insect repellent
- Foot glide (anti-chaffing)
- Watch
- Cash (for buying sodas and last-minute supplies at Laban Rata Resthouse and tipping)
Hiking Mount Kinabalu | The Experience
Mountain Tease and Temptation
I discovered Mount Kinabalu while we were in Kuala Lumpur; Jessica and I were researching and planning our visit to Borneo. Our primary reason for visiting the island was to see the orangutans in Sepilok. In searching for things to do, I stumbled across a reference to a mountain trek. I Googled the mountains name, and the images of Mount Kinabalu my search returned were enchanting! I couldn’t stop thinking about it in the days leading up to our flight to Borneo.
When we arrived in Kota Kinabalu, one of the first things I did was chat up the people working at our hostel and inquire about the mountain. I quickly learned the cost of the hike, and with it, my excitement turned to disenchantment. At the time, $500 was a lot of money and stressed our traveling budget for Borneo. I resolved that it was an unnecessary expenditure and tried desperately to stop fantasizing about the mountain.
A day later, we were on our way from Kota Kinabalu to Sepilok to see the orangutans. I had put the mountain dreams behind me, or at least I thought I had. After an hour on the bus, something across the horizon started to take form. As we continued down the highway, the shadowy grey edges of the form became more defined. I remember how my stomach felt, as though it were full of butterflies when I realized the imposing figure we were approaching was Mount Kinabalu!
The mountain towered over everything else in the surrounding area, and its rocky multiple spiked peaks resembled a sort of a crown. I was bewitched now and realized I had to do it, or would forever regret it.
Our bus made a rest stop, and like a kid on Christmas, I was out of my seat and off the bus, scanning the horizon for another glimpse of the mountain. Unbeknownst to me, Jessica messaged one of the people we met from the hostel in Kota Kinabalu. Somehow in that short time, she managed to reserve me a spot in a hiking group that would summit a few days later. When we got back on the bus, and she told me I was ecstatic! After my excitement bubbled up and escaped with exuberant gratitude, she smiled and asked, “Now, can we focus on something else?!?” (haha)
The forest is brimming with the sounds of life. They harmonize to produce the theatrical performance of LIFE in the rainforest. The insects form the orchestra, the birds are the choir, subtle drops of water the metronome, and rippling stream waters the foundational white noise. The rustling leaves and swaying trees in the wind dance to the music. It is a harmony only nature could create.
The first kilometer goes by quickly, the legs are fresh, and the surroundings are distracting. The trail weaves through the forest and continually challenges you with more and more stairs. By kilometer two, I was beginning to feel the burn in my legs.
One of the nice things about the trail is at nearly every kilometer, there are little cabanas to rest at that have toilets to use and water filling stations. These stops are great for keeping track of how far you’ve come and how much further you have to go.
Kilometer three and four were tough, and I earned each step forward. We rested at kilometer four to have lunch. Our bodies were in desperate need of calories. During lunch, we were joined by some opportunistic forest critters – dozens of squirrels! Not overly aggressive at all, instead just patient and willing to accept any handouts they were offered. As they scurried about from person to person, their presence was cheerful and amusing. They brought a much-needed distraction from the exhaustion and imparted a bit of their energetic spirit onto me.
Our lunch break was short. I didn’t want to let my leg muscles get too cold anyway. The goal for the day was to reach the Laban Rata rest-house at kilometer six. We still had two kilometers to go! I topped off my water bottles, and we set off.
Those last two kilometers were agonizing! It felt like the stair-master would never end. Fortunately, I had merged into another group of hikers keeping a nice steady pace. We had great camaraderie together. We talked, laughed, and celebrated our small victories on the trail.
When we finally saw the pitched roofs of the cabins at Laban Rata, we were all thrilled. Every step by that point was labored. Rest and food were finally in sight!
I dragged my weary body the remainder of the way to a clearing just in-front of Laban Rata. We all turned to see the view before us, and although my body was exhausted and my legs beginning to cramp, I couldn’t help but smile. We were finally above the tree line! After six hours and six kilometers, we had reached an elevation of 3,272 m (10,734 ft).
I looked down on the forest we had come from and across the vast horizon that stretched out before me – this moment was pure bliss. I indulged in a few celebratory shouts, hugs, and high-fives then collapsed on my butt!
After catching my breath, I headed up to check out Laban Rata. The area consisted of one main cabin surrounded by several other smaller ones. I checked in at the main cabin, which was also the dining hall. Inside, the walls were papered with photos, stories, and inspirational messages from climbers past. It was my first mountain rest house experience. I felt by just getting there, I had become part of a community.
I was assigned to one of the bunkhouses and went to check it out. The bunkhouse consisted of one main room with six bunk beds and one shared bathroom with a shower. I picked an open bed and crawled onto the mattress. I let my body to wallow in soft comfort.
After the brief rest I freshened up and went back down to the dining hall. The dining area was lively and full of gleeful hikers. I filled my plate with food and joined some of my trail friends at a table where we feasted! The buffet-style food was excellent. There wasn’t a single complaint in the house that night.
After dinner, a few of us gathered on the balcony outside the dining hall to watch the sunset. It was a kind of sunset I had never seen before. We were high on the mountain and well above the cloud line. Below us and along the horizon, all we could see were dense white clouds. The orange ball of light set below the clouds, and as it vanished, the last light of the day illuminated the clouds before us. The sea of clouds, at first snow-white, began to glow yellow, then orange, then pink and finally purple. Without intending to, we had all watched in silence captivated by the grand finale of our day.
Feeling spiritually recharged and at peace, I crawled off to bed. Tomorrow would be a challenging day.
Hiking Mount Kinabalu – Day 2
I woke in my bunk before my body was done sleeping. It was earlier than early. All the lights were on in the room, and my bunkmates were busy getting their gear together. I strained my eyes to make out the numbers on my watch… 01:00 AM. “What the heck,” I thought breakfast wasn’t until 02:00 AM?? I had some very enthusiastic roommates!
I eventually roused myself out of bed and gathered all my gear together.
The pre-dawn morning was cold, and it bit at my exposed skin as I exited our bunkhouse. Overhead the moon was full and lit my way to the dining hall without the need for a torch.
Inside the dining hall, my fellow hikers were more reserved than they had been at dinner only a few hours ago. Maybe still trying to shake off their slumber or just in quiet contemplation of what was to come. I again filled my plate and forced myself to eat as much as I could tolerate. This summit push would burn through calories fast. I knew I needed to stay ahead of the curve.
Our guide checked in with each of us and let us know we could start whenever we were ready. I cleared my plate, bundled up, donned my backpack, and set out. I was ready to do this!
02:45 AM, here we go!
Leaving Laban Rata in the dark, I followed the other hikers to a long set of wooden stairs that led up and away from the rest house. Looking further ahead, I could see a long string of headlamps leading into the distance. We all formed a single line and slowly ascended the stairs. Since we were grouped up, it actually served as a nice warm-up for the day and helped to set a good pace.
The stairs lasted for what seemed like a half kilometer or more. By kilometer seven, the pack began to separate out a bit. With some space between groups, I was able to appreciate how brightly the moon illuminated the rock face we walked along. When reasonable, I would switch off my headlamp and walk by lunar light alone.
Off the stairs now, we walked through fields of boulders and trod across the smooth, sloping bare rock face. I was acutely aware of the distance markers now that served as a countdown to the summit.
The final 1.5 kilometers was a grueling battle. Each step was deliberate, and so was each breath. I kept a steady pace, and because of it, I was able to continue up the sloping rock face without having to stop too many times to catch my breath.
At kilometer eight, I could see the lights from other hikers at the summit. It was so close! I was exhausted, but the sight of the summit filled me with excited anticipation and gave me the boost of energy I needed to press on.
I pushed through the pain and fatigue and reached the summit at 04:45 AM – two hours since I had left the rest house.
I touched the marker at the summit and let out a howl! Unexpectedly my howl was responded to by howls from several others at the summit, and some still on their way.
I found a nice flat spot to drop my bag and took a seat to admire the view. It was stunning. I imagined this must be comparable to the view Zeus has from his perch on Mount Olympus. Below me, on the steep sloping rock face, I could see a long line of hikers making their way up. Their lights looked joined together to form an electric rope leading up the mountain. Beyond the hikers stood a lone monolithic rock. Its presence ornamented the summit and sat just as I did awaiting the sun to crest the horizon.
Sitting and waiting for sunrise was cold and windy. The lack of motion had allowed the chill to set in. I added every extra layer I could, and we all huddled together to watch the sunrise. We were like a bunch of mountain penguins awaiting the sun’s warmth.
The sunrise was spectacular! So to was the gratitude that I had for the journey. I was privileged to watch this sunrise from the top Mount Kinabalu! We stayed at the summit for an hour. It was the most spiritual place I have ever been to, and I was reluctant to leave.
The descent from the summit was a whole new challenge. Where the ascent required stamina and will-power, the descent demanded strength, patience, and sure-footedness.
I made it back down to Laban Rata by 08:30 AM and stumbled into the dining hall.
Food and warm coffee were waiting. As I sipped on some coffee and looked around the dining room, I tried to really absorb the atmosphere. After having reached the summit, I felt more connected to the photos and stories that covered the walls. I felt like I had earned my right to be there. I was high on the experience and wished I could bottle up the way I felt. Every face that walked through the door beamed with the light of joy and pride. I could easily become a junky for this feeling.
My group started our descent together at 10:00 AM. I was moving carefully but quickly down the trail. Going down hurt! My knees were screaming, and my calves kept taunting me with cramping up.
I outpaced our group and ended up on my own. There were several stretches of the hike down where it was just myself, my pain, the trail, and the abundant life energy of nature. It became a meditative journey off the mountain.
With 2.5 kilometers left to go, it began to rain. I donned my raincoat and covered my backpack. The rain grew more and more intense, and the trail became soggy and dangerously slick. Every step grew more difficult for my tired legs. Stepping down, my knees would wobble, threatening to give out. My focus was centered on safely getting to the Timpohon Gate.
When the 0.5 kilometers to go sign came into view, I was relieved to be close to the end. I was beyond exhausted, soaking wet, and running out of energy.
I reached the steps of Timphon Gate at 13:00 PM.
I could barely muster any excitement. It took the last bit of my energy to drag my sad wet body those last few steps. At the gate, I found a wooden bench out of the rain and collapsed across it.
About thirty minutes later, the rest of my group started to file in one after another. When everyone was together, we all rejoiced at having made it safely off the mountain. Our guide led us to our van – something we were all eager to see! We had the option to stop for lunch, but all agreed we just wanted to get back to town.
The rain continued the whole ride back to Kota Kinabalu, and the summit was shrouded in clouds. I tried many times to catch one last glimpse of the summit, but I was never able to. It seemed fitting. The mountain gave me a mysterious and longing farewell.
Aftermath | Reflection
To just say my body was sore would be doing a great injustice to the pain I felt. The hostel we were staying had three steps up to the doorway. Honestly, If there hadn’t been a railing to hold onto, I probably would not have made it up the steps. It was that bad! The warm shower helped a little, but it was the cold beer I had later that helped the most.
In reality, the pain was only temporary; it’s the feeling of accomplishment that I’ll have forever. This pain was only a small price to pay for the experience.
Besides the temporary discomfort, I felt overwhelming gratitude for being able to do this at all and gratitude for having accepted the challenge.
Whenever you have the spark to do something extraordinary – my experiences have led me to believe – you should commit as soon as possible!
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