Pokhara – Gateway to Adventure

The city of Pokhara is a picturesque lakeside retreat located about 120 miles northwest of Kathmandu. With close proximity to the Annapurna Mountain range and an exhaustive list of available adrenaline sports, Pokhara is indeed a gateway to adventure. Almost all trekkers will have a stayover in the city either before setting out on or after returning from the very popular Annapurna Circuit Trail. With all the activities available for travelers it is easy to understand why Pokhara is considered the tourist capital of Nepal.

Our journey began early one morning in Kathmandu. We purchased our tickets and boarded one of the many tourist buses headed out of the city. To be honest, the bus situation was a bit confusing. There were well over twenty buses, and very few people spoke English. We were so grateful to have our friend Prem to help us and make sure we boarded the correct bus. Once aboard, our seats were in the very last row and their comfort level was modest. The seat in front of mine was stuck in the reclined position; it left me with very little choice but to straddle it with my legs. We were nice and cozy in that cramped bus with not a single seat to spare when we pulled away from the curb. I have learned a smile goes a long way in situations like these. Anyway… this is Nepal!

The road to Pokhara is a ten-hour marathon up and down switchback laden mountain passes that will make even the hardest stomach turn. Most of the trip followed along a river while snaking through canyons, at times on unbelievably narrow dirt roads peppered with potholes that could take out the stoutest trucks. The drive was exhilarating and unforgettable. It was not a trip for the faint at heart or those of limited patience. However, it is well worth every second of the journey. The ability to see how the locals live outside the urban areas and appreciate the raw, untamed landscapes of Nepal is a fair trade for the ten hours on a bus.

We arrived around 6 pm and were dropped off at a large dirt lot that served as the bus station. The temperature outside was cool, and I could smell a hint of moisture in the air. Several taxis were waiting for us new arrivals when we got off the bus. After gathering our bags, we flagged one down and set off into town.

This city felt entirely different than Kathmandu. There was more space between buildings, and most of the buildings looked newer. Traffic was next to none, and it seemed we left the chorus of honking horns behind in Kathmandu. It was a peaceful little city, and we were both delighted we made to the journey here.

Our home for the next two nights, Hotel Mount View Pokhara, was incredible with our room on the top floor! The first thing we did was drawback the window shades to reveal the spectacular view. Straight off our balcony, we overlooked the whole city. Phewa Lake stretched across the horizon beyond the city and to the north were the magnanimous Himalayan Mountains. They stood tall, jagged, and snow-capped; Machapuchare (22,943 ft / 6,993 m) being the tallest and grandest of all the mountains we could see. We had arrived in the Himalayas… Finally!

From our balcony, we indulged in the natural beauty before our eyes. I tried to tattoo in my mind the memory of the panorama before us. This was not something I ever wanted to forget. After our long journey to get to here, watching the sunset over Phewa Lake that evening with Jessica reminded me that life and relationships are full of long, sometimes uncomfortable, journeys. We must remind ourselves at the end of these journeys to appreciate the beauty of the destination. As night fell the twinkling lights and decorations for the festival, Tihar, lit the city. We changed for the evening and set out to explore a little on foot.

There is one main road that runs along the lakefront; conspicuously named Lakeside Road. Along this street are all the shops, restaurants, clubs and bars. This part of town is dedicated to the travelers and tourists that come to visit. With all the neon signs, western food restaurants, and waterfront bars the setting felt a little reminiscent of a spring break destination in Mexico. We even found a restaurant offering Mexican food! The street was full of western travelers of all ages. We met and talked to retirees who had been planning a trip to Nepal their whole life and on the opposite spectrum young travelers returning from the Annapurna Circuit who weren’t sure where they were headed next. It was a splendidly diverse mix of people. We found a quaint cafe where we ordered some obligatory cheese balls and a cold beer. The rest of the evening was spent relaxing and watching the people pass by on the street below.

Sunset was approaching, and so we found a comfortable seat at a lakeside bar to rest for a while. With a cold drink, we reflected on the memorable day we had and watched the sun melt over the mountains.

After sunset, we walked back along the main street, and it was alive with the celebration of Tihar. Almost every other shop had brought DJ speakers out to the road and were blaring traditional music from them. Local girls in brightly decorated dresses took turns dancing in a big circle with cheers and applause from their family and friends. The entire city was celebrating tonight! We felt so fortunate to experience this. Looking around, we noticed every business and residence had their front entrances decorated with a mica powder painting on the ground. Some looked like mandalas, others peacocks and others hand little baby footprints leading into the entryway. One of the things that we really appreciated about how they celebrated was how inviting they all were. It wasn’t just families celebrating on their own it was everyone celebrating together, and they welcomed us in to watch and participate.

We enjoyed our last dinner in Pokhara and then made our way back to our hotel. The sounds of music and celebration carried on well into the night, and we wished we would have been able to stay longer. But, we had an early departure the next morning and needed the sleep!

As we talked over breakfast the next day, we agreed that two nights was not enough time and at a minimum, we would recommend three nights to have two full days. With another day we would have hiked up to the Peace Pagoda, visited the limestone caves and canoed out to see the Tal Barahi Pagoda Temple. But, we were so grateful for the time we had!

I am already dreaming of our next trip here, and that will include the Annapurna Circuit. We’ll be back for more Pokhara!!!